Brown butter chocolate chip cookies

Oh my cookie.

This is a good one.

Those are the words I began with when I originally posted this recipe on Cole’s Kitch in January 2011. They’re also the words I find myself searching when I want to track down the recipe again. Of all the things I made and wrote about on the original blog, it’s the recipe for these brown butter chocolate chip cookies that I’ve returned to most. Fifteen years later, I stand by my original assessment.

The recipe itself hasn’t really changed—countless batches later, I still make these cookies pretty much the same way. I have browned enough butter over the years to have a better sense of what to watch for along the way (more on that below). One thing I’ve abandoned is the originally recommended 24-hour dough refrigeration time. I’m far too impatient for that, and I’ve found that an hour or two works just fine.

Caramely brown butter, dark brown sugar, bittersweet chocolate, coarse sea salt on top—all of this comes together into my own version of cookie perfection.

a little history

Speaking of perfection—when I first made these, I hadn’t realized there were people who devoted serious kitchen time to achieving the perfect chocolate chip cookie. I knew I wanted something traditional, but with a twist. Then I came across the idea of brown butter chocolate chip cookies. I’d never browned butter before, and the combination sounded too good not to try.

As I searched online for recipes to model, I discovered the cookie fanatics. The interesting thing was that none of them seemed to be competing against each other; rather, they were competing against themselves, trying to outdo their most recent “best” recipe.

This recipe grew out of that search—and the mixing and matching I did across recipes to make that first delicious batch.

browning butter

If you’ve never browned butter, this is the only part of the recipe that requires a little attention. It isn’t difficult, but things move quickly near the end, so you’ll want to pay attention.

Use a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat—a light-colored interior helps because you can see the butter changing color. Slice the butter first so it melts quickly and evenly, then add it to the pan and whisk constantly.

First, the butter melts and foams. Then the foam subsides and the butter settles into a clear yellow, bubbling aggressively. Keep whisking. It will foam again. This is when you need to watch closely (and continue stirring): beneath the foam, the butter will start to darken and the milk solids will turn brown.

When it smells nutty and reaches a deep caramel color, it’s done. The whole process usually takes about 10 minutes, but trust your eyes and nose more than the clock. Remove it from the heat promptly so it doesn’t cross the line from browned to burned.

Now let’s get to those cookies.

brown butter chocolate chip cookies

Makes about 4 dozen

3 2/3 c all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 1/4 tsp baking soda
scant 1 tsp salt
1 1/4 c dark brown sugar
1 c granulated sugar
2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 c) butter, sliced
2 eggs
2 tsp vanilla
1 bag (10 oz) good-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips
coarse sea salt

Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.

Combine both sugars in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

Brown the butter as described above. Immediately pour the browned butter over the sugars; there’s no need to mix. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and secure it to the stand mixer. Beat the butter and sugars on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add the eggs and vanilla and beat for 30 seconds.

Add the flour mixture and beat until just combined. Mix in the chocolate chips.

Cover and refrigerate the dough for 1–2 hours. If you’re impatient (I usually am), you can get away with less, but the cookies will spread a little more.

Heat oven to 350°F.

Scoop dough into roughly 1 1/2-inch balls and place about 2 inches apart on a cookie sheet. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt.

Bake for about 12 minutes, or until golden. Let cool for 2 minutes on the cookie sheet, then transfer to a wire rack.